Cape Breton, Nova Scotia. What a fabulous place! Jim and I feel crazy lucky to have been able to have spent a week there with three other couples. We rented an AirBnB on Boularderie Island together, inspired by Celtic Colours, an island-wide celebration of music, and the sights and sounds of a truly multi-cultural place.
Sooo many highlights, but, for all my animal loving friends, here’s one of my favorites: We spent a half hour cruising beside a pod of pilot whales, a relatively small whale, related to Orcas and dolphins. They live in family groups, are toothed whales who feed on fish like herring, and are regrettably famous for tragic beaching incidents. In spite of that, their population is doing very well, and they are habituated and unbothered by small boats like ours, a Zodiak from Captain Mark’s in Pleasant Bay.
It was magical listening to them glide through the water, and exhaling from their 3-4 minutes under water. And cold. Whale watching tip: Don’t be so excited when staff comes to tell you that you can leave a half hour early that you run out of the car and forget your raincoat, warm flannel shirt, and hat. And then go out for an hour, unprotected from hard rain and wind. I was so enraptured I didn’t much care, but Jim, for some reason, seemed alarmed by my violent shivering. Hey, I was still shivering, so no hypothermia, right?
Another highlight was the Skyline Trail, north of Cheticamp and in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. My photographs don’t begin to do it justice, but it’s about a four mile round trip walk to the famous overlook of the Gulf of Saint Lawrence.
Regrettably, it is so popular that caretakers are constantly trying to decrease damage from hikers to the fragile highland forest and barrens, which has also been overgrazed by moose. I was momentarily frustrated when rangers told us we would have to wait to start hiking (to control the numbers of people on the trail), but then took a breath and were thankful that they are working hard to make the trail accessible without too much crowding. Besides the views, we loved hearing so many languages from fellow hikers, and going through a moose “exclosure” to give spruce and juniper seedlings a chance.
And, NEWS AT ELEVEN: Did you notice the “four-mile-trail” data point? Jim and I have planned how we would manage the trail for a long time, both knowing that there was no way I could make two miles out and two miles back. Except I did. For the last mile I might have looked like Dean Martin at 3 AM in Vegas (Sorry, old person reference. For the younger crowd: He pretended to drink a lot), and, frankly, I only made it because at that point I had no choice. Jim basically walked behind me with a hand ready to catch me if I started to fall, but I made it. Last March I walked twenty yards behind the house and lay down in ice and snow because I just couldn’t walk any farther. I don’t have the words to tell you what it felt like to make the four miles. Thankfully, it rained most of the next day so I recouped by lying in bed with a great mystery novel at the delightful Archie and Isidore Hotel in Cheticamp. Here’s me on the trail, still smiling.
Another highlight was the music. We went to two concerts, getting tickets months before, based on knowing very little, and lucked out. Our first concert began with The Indian Bay Singers, a local Mi’kmaq drumming circle group whose primal chanting and drumming of their tribe’s indigenous songs was hypnotic. We also were crazy lucky to see Le Vent du Nord at both concerts. I wish I had some visual record of them, phones of course were not allowed. All I can say is that their music, which included two amazing fiddlers, brought down the house. Our musician friend, Michael, said it was the best musical performance he’d seen in many a year. Imagine our surprise when we discovered, after returning home, that they are playing in Wisconsin and Illinois this week. Waaaa?!? If you are around, (Madison, Viroqua, Milwaukee, Chicago) go!!!
So much else was wonderful, from being with such smart, funny, and kind friends (that’s you Michael, Janet, Sally, John, Janelle, and Paul!), and including a big favorite of mine: Lobster rolls. This is me starting on my first (and best one) at Tom’s Lobster Shack in Peggy’s Cove, outside of Halifax. So big you had to start with a fork. (But tradition insists that you cram as much of the whole thing into your mouth as possible.)
And this is the worst, at Salty’s in Halifax, who should be embarrassed to serve a lobster roll on a croissant. A croissant? What are they thinking?
We took our first real hike to Uisge Ban Falls, a lovely walk along a burbling river. It included some remarkably determined trees:
On our Zodiak trip we were lucky to float alongside a basking shark, a massive animal, about 26 ft in length, while it was filter feeding. This is what we saw:
And here’s what was happening underwater (photo thanks to Wikipedia). Holy moly.
Being in the Highlands in mid October meant we were surrounded by gorgeous fall colors:
Now we’re home, and thrilled to see the dogs. We have a fabulous sitter, who the dogs adore, but Maggie still cry-whined hysterically when we got home, and I sort of did too. Huge thanks to our friends for making this adventure truly memorable. Here we are at farm-to-table restaurant Gra, having one of the best meals I’ve ever had in my life.
I am overwhelmed with gratitude, for the many things that allowed us to go on this trip. I will fess up to you for feeling guilty about the last two weeks of my life, given all the suffering in the world right now. But I am reminding myself that this emotion does nothing for others, that gratitude and compassion and doing something tangible to help to others is the only answer. I’ll work on that this week. I hope you have things to be grateful for this week, even if they don’t include lobster rolls.
Kat says
It’s lovely to hear about your wonderful trip. And the accomplishment of a four mile hike! Made me smile all over.
Frances says
Huge congratulations on the four miles – a real milestone (or four) and confidence boost. And I love the tree sitting down astride the rock – looks like it found four miles just a tad too much…
Helen says
Oh my. That all looks so wonderful I want to go!
Teddy says
Thanks for this post, I loved seeing it! I happened to spend most of my evenings this week glued to the livestream of Celtic Colours! Le Vent du Nord was amazing, as was Blazin’ Fiddles and others!
I was also reassured to read the passing reference to Maggie’s “cry-whining,” which is definitely what my good dog does when we return. It’s somehow reassuring to know that even with the best care and circumstances, some dogs do that, and it does not (necessarily) mean that their world had nearly come to an end in your absence!
Thank you again and welcome home!
Susanne says
Wow! You were in my neck of the woods…we live just outside of Cheticamp in Grand Etang. If I had known I would’ve waived to you as you’d driven by 😉 Glad you had a great time…it is quite the beautiful and special spot.
Carol says
Oh, how I love the sounds of the pilot whales chuffing, exhaling, the gentle waves.
Trisha says
Carol–isn’t it wonderful? I could have coasted beside them forever. Except for that freezing my ass off thing….
Tails Around the Ranch says
Beautiful images-thank you for sharing. And congrats on successfully completing the 4-mile hike…upright. 😊 At our age, that’s a terrific accomplishment in any event, let alone when you’ve had some health challenges. Well done.
Orietta says
I’m so happy for you Trisha (for you both actually) but especially for you because you’re gaining back your health and you could enjoy such wonderful time and place. You fully deserve it and the warm feelings you’re inspiring will help us all during this difficult weeks.
Thank you!
glenda says
I live in Baddeck. Glad you enjoyed our beautiful little corner of the world.
Sue Clearfield says
Love your travelogue. We stayed at Meat Cove at the north end of Cape Breton on our way to NewFoundland and I’ve never been happier in any place! And I know those people at your table at the Farm to Table meal! Welcome home and good job hiking!
Gayla says
That your health is finally improving is the best possible news for those of us that care so deeply about you…
Thank you for sharing the video and photos!
LisaW says
Yes, what Gayla said.
The ocean is a healing place in so many ways. And lobster roles are manna from the deep (sans croissant).
I just recently read about three key things to assist in dealing with health issues (I love triplet sets): 1) Practice non-judgement 2) Reconnect to your body 3) Efficiently lean into suffering.
Sounds like you’ve conquered all three while spending time with the whales and sharks. Brava.
Trisha says
LisaW: Love the three keys. Meditation takes me on a similar path: Be curious, listen to your body, and yup, everyone suffers, everyone dies. Leaning in; some days I do better than others.
Roz says
OMG how awesome & timely!
Been thinking about Prince Edward Island for last few years & this is so helpful. Proud of you for persevering on your 4 mile hike. Very sorry that it was hard & pray that you are well.
I drive with my dog from NC.
Campobello Island just over Maine/Canadian border another special & wild coast. Not the Roosevelt side of Island but the east National Park overlooking ocean
You are most revered!💖
Becky says
Thank you for sharing your trip with great pictures & interesting narrative . I am Sals cousin living in Idaho and fall colors are not so plentiful here.
lak says
WOW what a trip, your photos are beautiful! I have always wanted to see this part of the world, you have given me much food for thought! Love that you could hike the 4 miles! And yes, the world is crazy again, an antidote to that is living the good life, enjoying nature and all the beauty the world has to offer! No Guilt, as you said it is useless. We are looking at Assisted Living and Memory Care for a family member right now, after touring many my response has been Carpe Diem while you can!
Michelle says
I’ve never taken such a trip and I’m not sure I could, given the number of animals we have and my feelings of responsibility for them and my love of being here with them. But I positively basked in the descriptions and photos of YOUR trip (well, except for the lobster – yuck! – rolls); it sounds like it was perfect!
CAROLE Schiavi says
Thank you for sharing all the experiences of your wonderful trip…Congrats on the 4 mile hike and the lobster roll looked amazing.
I agree world events certainly would make one feel guilty, but just being aware of the atrocities put you way ahead of most.
Chris from Boise says
What a wonderful – glorious! – adventure! So happy you were up for (most of) a four mile hike. And those pilot whales – thanks for bringing us along for the adventure (sans the freezing cold weather). No guilt – your trip brings a lot of us a bit of light in these troubled times. Gratitude is the fitting word here.
Tonya Allen says
Thank you for sharing this beautiful account and photos of your trip. The scenery looks magical. I’m glad you were able to do the hikes you wanted to do.
You write, “I will fess up to you for feeling guilty about the last two weeks of my life, given all the suffering in the world right now. But I am reminding myself that this emotion does nothing for others, that gratitude and compassion and doing something tangible to help to others is the only answer.”
This is more evidence of what a good person you are. You already give a lot to the world every day, through your writing, training advice, and sharing your joy in life through your blog. Your vacation was well-deserved.
I’ll suggest a tangible way to help, if I may. If you prefer not to allow charity recommendations in comments, please remove this part of my comment, but at least maybe you will take a look. 🙂 “Love Furry Friends” https://www.youtube.com/@lovefurryfriends is an animal rescue group located in Ukraine. They have a Patreon account as well as their youtube channels. They existed before the war started, and have now expanded their work to include rescuing dogs from areas destroyed by the war, for example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ETKYUcIfq4
Trisha says
Thank you Tonya for the suggestion for where to help animals in war-torn areas. Much appreciated; I will follow up on it. And thank you too for your kind remarks. ❤️